36 Hours in Bologna

from the ex-wife of a local

To be honest, I started writing this post days ago and cannot for the life of me condense it any further. 36 hours, 72 hours, what’s the difference. Bologna is a gem and it’s yours for the taking tasting.

But how does an American brat like me know so much about Bologna? It’s a longish story, but the short version is that I was married to a Bolognese man for a bunch of years in my twenties and we spent a solid amount of time there. We share a gorgeous daughter and I’ve stayed close to his (her) family, and I still consider them to be an important part of mine. The whole story hasn’t been free of its dramas, but that, my friends, is for another post (or twenty).

Back to Bologna: la dotta, la grassa, la rossa. The learned, the fat, the red. “Dotta” because it’s home to the oldest university in Europe; “grassa” because of its world renowned cuisine and “rossa” because of its red buildings (and Communist leanings). I think Bologna is, more than anything, la bella. It’s an intensely walkable city covered in miles and miles of porticoes, full of countless incredible buildings and museums. I’ve always found it very kid-friendly (there are occasionally stairs under the porticoes but in my experience someone will always stop to help you navigate them) and just very pleasant.

These days, we try to make it to Bologna at least once a year. Sometimes we get lucky enough to squeeze in a cheeky last minute long weekend to see the nonni and fill up on tortellini. This weekend was one of those and, despite the intense rain, the city was just as beautiful as ever. (Bologna’s famous porticoes spare you in the blinding sun and the driving rain.)

a tiny slice of Bologna's famous porticoes

I took the opportunity to ask my Bolognese relatives - over lunch at Trattoria Meloncello - for their list of recommendations. I hadn’t even heard of some of their top choices, despite being a regular visitor for the last 17 years. And so I’ll cut to the chase and just start listing things in a vague sort of itinerary. I have too many recommendations for an hour-by-hour shortlist but that’s ok - in an ideal world you’ll spend more than 36 hours in Bologna anyway. And if you don’t? You can always come back.

Day 1

Breakfast

Breakfast in Bologna is, like in most of Italy, an afterthought of coffee and maybe a pastry. Take this opportunity to order your cappuccino because they’re considered acceptable only until around 11am.

• Regina di Quadri, Via Castiglione, 73/A (keep walking away from the due torri)

  • For the best pastries. There’s a crowd on the weekend but persevere.

• Granarolo da Gino Fabbri

  • Just “fuori porta” or outside the city walls; I’ve never been but the locals rave.

• Bar Porta San Mamolo

  • Some of my favourite cornetti (croissants)

• Zanarini, Piazza Galvani, 1

  • It’s shiny and fancy and an institution that’s worth it for a stand up coffee at the bar. Plus, it’ll mean you’re right in the thick of things - with the Archiginnasio, Piazza Maggiore and shopping areas a stone’s throw away.