Tokyo: Scratching the Surface but Scratching it Well
what to know before you go plus a very thorough compendium of and commentary on all the shops, restaurants, parks, bars, places and hotels I'll be running back to
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We just had the best time in Japan. We went to Tokyo on the front and back end with a 3-day stint in Okinawa in the middle, with brief stays in Kyoto and Hakone, too. If you’re considering a trip, I really can’t overstate how much we loved it. It was a beautiful mix of incredible accommodation, £5 lunches, panic attacks in Donki, daily discoveries, traditional onsen, birdsong in stations, pristine beaches, fast trains, old money Tokyo food halls, an epic manicure and some of the best meals I’ve ever had.
Eric wanted to plan a big trip to mark our 40th birthdays and Japan was top of the list. His mum agreed to come over to watch the kids and water the basil so he got to work. For months, he’s been squirrelling away, learning very basic Japanese and picking the brains of a trusted friend who lived in Japan and whose restaurant recommendations have been, quite honestly, incredible. We were blown away by everywhere we went but especially Tokyo. One of the world’s mega-metropolises, it feels unlike any other city I’ve been in: intensely calm, predictable, convenient. It has all the life, possibility and variety of a massive city but there’s so much infrastructure that functions so well, everything just makes sense and feels easy.
I’m writing this now on the 15-hour flight home while I’m fresh with links, lists, instructions, suggestions. And so, so much gratitude.
This is the very best of what was our first trip to Japan so we’ve only just scratched the surface. I know I’ll use this guide and starting point for all our future trips.
Things to Know
Just in case you need another reason to book your tickets: I expected Japan to be lots of things it was (delicious, friendly, calm, full of paradoxes, orderly, peaceful) but I didn’t expect it to be so inexpensive relative to our life in the UK and travels in Europe and North America. We splurged on a few meals and hotels, but routinely had incredible lunches for under £5 each. Transport cost less, meals cost less, things cost less and honestly, for someone like me who doesn’t love to splash out, this made the whole experience much less stressful.
Download the Suica app and put some money on it before you go. Use Suica to tap in and out on the subway (and off on buses). It’s much faster than a normal, tap-on-tap-off Apple Pay situation. It’s also taken as payment in most shops — just say Suica to use it.
Cash is still widely used. Don’t bother exchanging before you go or in a bank — just go to an ATM in a konbini (convenience store).
Which leads me to the convenient stores, konbini. There are three major ones — 7-Eleven, Family Mart and Lawson — and they are excellent for everything from pre-packaged soups, onigiri, and fried chicken (get the famichiki at Family Mart) to socks, tampons and magazines. Do not underestimate the power of a Pocari Sweat after a big night out (I’m currently drinking one on the plane and it is heaven). I fell for the iced caffè lattes at 7-Eleven: go to the freezer section, buy a caffè latte cup full of ice, pay for it (with your Suica!) then use the machine near the exit to fill it up. Delicious. But you’ve got to remember…
There are almost no public places to dispose of rubbish so carry a bag (a little tote bag or similar) to carry your rubbish (empty bottles, napkins, wrappers, etc.) out with you.
If you’re wearing sandals, carry a pair of socks with you. In some places you’ll be asked to take your shoes off before entering.
The subway is so easy to use, relatively inexpensive (around £1 per journey in the city), predictable, quiet and clean. Everything is in English. Use Google Maps to navigate and pay attention to which subway car to get on and which exit to use at the station. Queue according to the instructions to board. Some lines even play birdsong in the stations. I’m a fan.
Download Google Translate: it comes in handy! As does ChatGPT!
We stumbled upon so, so many neighbourhood festivals and markets. Late May was an excellent time to be in Tokyo for this (and for the weather!) but no matter the time of year, it’s definitely worth looking up local festivals, events and markets that will be on during your trip — there seem to be so many all year long and they are a joy.
Pack light: you will want to buy so much! But also, every hotel we stayed in offered not only robes and slippers but excellent pajamas as well as most toiletries, including face wash, face cream, toothpaste, razors, etc. Plus, everything else you might need is so easily purchased at any number of stores (more on that below) or the konbini. The only thing of my own I’m glad I brought was my Moroccan hair oil, but one place we stayed even offered that!
Every restaurant will offer you a wet napkin (often not a dry one) when you sit down. Do not use it anywhere but on your hands and don’t put it on your lap.
Look up chopstick etiquette and learn a few basic phrases before you go. Don’t be late for restaurant reservations, especially omakase. Rice often comes towards the end.
Be prepared to fall in love with the Toto Washlet.
Stick everyone’s recommendations into Google Maps so when you inevitably find yourself wandering different neighbourhoods, you’ll have places pre-saved.
And my most important pieces of advice:
